The house we rented this year was way up in the pedestrian only part of the Chora.We were nestled up under the walls of the castle ruins and the Panagia Portaitissa church.

Everyday activities, like grocery shopping, are a tad more difficult in the Chora. Cars can only reach the platia, which is the lowest ring of houses capping the top of the hill. Motor bikes can go higher, but there are places that are even too narrow for them to drive. Leaving hauling the goods by brute strength up the incline the only option.

I tried hauling groceries up in a wheeled suitcase last year, but the rough terrain just shredded the wheels. Another sacrifice to the gods of Astypalaia who seem to have a special hunger for shoes and luggage.

Keeping enough drinking water on hand is a distinct hassle, as the tap water is not potable. Water is sold in shrink wrapped packages of six 1.5 liter bottles, so 9 liters. This weighs in just a tad over 21 pounds. Which in the sweltering heat might last two people 3 days,

Least you forget, you have to drag your other groceries up the hill also,. Leaving extravagant heavy items like watermelon off limits, unless you can commandeer a goat to deliver it.

However, the climb up into the far corners of the Chora is worth it. Instead of motor bikes you hear birds chirping and the wind sneaking through the narrow streets. You can also hear voices chatting and the clicking of heels on the pavement as people walk up to the church to attend mass.

Let’s not forget about the view you get from way up near the castle.