I’ve always been fond of liminal spaces, doorways are my favorites. When you step through you change spaces and realities. You never really know what is on the other side of that door. Here is a collection of Astypalaian doors to step through.

The house we rented this year was way up in the pedestrian only part of the Chora.We were nestled up under the walls of the castle ruins and the Panagia Portaitissa church. Everyday activities, like grocery shopping, are a tad more difficult in the Chora. Cars can only reach the platia, which is the lowest…

I have longed to own one of these busses for several years, although maybe in purple with big flowers all over it. They are currently not available in the USA, but a girl can dream. Wait maybe a metallic tie dye after market paint job! I got several opportunities to be a passenger in this…

Although I have been to Greece many times, my Greek language skills are abysmal. I never seem to have the time, dedication or ambition to study this exceedingly complicated language. The language geek in me should delight in conjugating irregular verbs, but the enormity of the project is daunting. I understand much more than I…

Living high up in the Chora can be logistically challenging. The roads, alleys really, are so tight that even motor bikes can’t drive through. So moving heavy items, like watermelon and water, becomes very difficult. The kitchen at our house has a full freezer, so I decided to make ice for cold beverages. So I…

I have a fabulous view of Magazaki Beach from my balcony. A true stunner, but you basically have to repelle down the cliff to get there. It is vertical. It has been many years since I went down to this beach, the slope used to be home to a great big herd of goats that…

Astypalaia lies in the South Aegean Sea, kind of in a liminal space between the Dodecanese and Cyclades island chains. It has a rugged coastline, really a craggy mountain top poking out of the sea. Lots of inlets, coves and bays ring the island. Perfect landscape for marauding pirates. The main settlement on the island,…

Steno means narrow or constructed in Greek, and in this case is a description of the landscape and the name of the beach. Astypalaia is a butterfly shaped island with a small narrow strip of land in the middle that connects the two rugged wings. The sandy beach at Steno is part of the narrow…

Modern times and hordes of tourists have descended upon Astypalaia island, and I’m definitely of two minds about it. Delirious from the heat I wandered into the beachside cafe Anax. One the one hand there was thoughtfully made gourmet food, fabulous beach chairs and umbrellas, great music and quick efficient service. The hippest place in…

A local friend of ours has been suggesting this beach to us for years, but we never managed to get here. Until today. The beach is in the MarMari part of the island, favored by locals because it quieter and has few tourists. There are lots of places to park, but you must walk an…