Modern times and hordes of tourists have descended upon Astypalaia island, and I’m definitely of two minds about it.

Delirious from the heat I wandered into the beachside cafe Anax.

One the one hand there was thoughtfully made gourmet food, fabulous beach chairs and umbrellas, great music and quick efficient service. The hippest place in the port. I dug the lounge and salsa tunes for sure.

On the other had I had to scan a QR code to place my lunch order in a cafe. A QR code! In Astypalaia! I was aghast. My vision of the island was always of a place that the modern world forgot, a refuge from social media and the pressures associated with living in today’s world. After all, this place was my escape from reality, now they were crashing into one another.

I twisted the thoughts around in my mind while drinking my perfectly made double Americano out of a gorgeous Italian cup and saucer set . I worried that the Astypalaia I had come to know and love was gone.

Ten years ago there was barely a wifi signal. You had two cafes to get online, one in the port and one in Livadi. There was one ATM and two taxis for the entire island. Now a fleet of EVs whizz around the narrow streets.

Like I said earlier, I had mixed feelings about it. I hoped it would not turn into Mykonos.

I guess only time will tell. I have to admit I enjoyed everything except the QR code.