We have been driving around the unmarked, steep, rutted dirt roads in Astypalaia for years searching in vain for the Church of Agios Ioannis. It is nestled up in the mountains on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea and a sandy beach also named for the saint.

Former obstacles to achieving our goal included extremely high winds that threatened to blow the car off of the ridge, driving a car that was not adequate for the rough road conditions, poor directions and driving to the wrong Agios Ioannis – at least 5 exist.

On the map it appears that there are two routes to get to the church. Technically true, but only one is accessible by vehicle. Of course we chose the wrong route. Here is what we found on our journey.

We drove round and about and decided to attempt to navigate an unnamed precipitous road that we’d never taken. It was steep and either loose gravel or bumpy washboard road. No way to turn around, steep drop on the side of the road. Basically terrifying. My nerves beyond frayed, I opted for deep calming breaths of air.

Finally we came upon a big communication tower and a small outbuilding. Andrea got out of the car to peer over the edge to find where the road continued. She was immediately set upon by two bored border collies. The goats we saw in the road must have been part of their flock. They leapt and jumped all around her, but then one started to bite her.

Enough! Back into the car! She reported the road as virtually impassable, so we turned around and headed back to the Chora.

Thwarted again, but one route left to try!